Tocaña

 

Tocaña is an Afro-Bolivian community, famous for being the origin of the Saya music and dance. Black people in the Yungas, you say? They arrived as slaves, working on the coca plantations. Originally they were brought to Bolivia to work in the mines, as the Spaniards thought they would die less quickly than their Indian slaves. However, they could not adapt to the work in the silver mines of chilly Potosí.

 

For a couple of hundred years nothing changed. The people of Tocaña worked in the Hacienda of Mururata within a feudal framework. Feudalism was abolished in Bolivia with the revolution of the year of lord 1952, when big landowners were expelled and sometimes killed. The black people of Mururata went on to found their own village of Tocaña under the leadership of black king Bonaficius.

Even though Afro-Bolivians number only 50000 in the whole of Bolivia, their influence on Bolivian culture has been disproportional. One of Bolivia’s most popular dances is largely inspired on Saya rhythms. Cultural influence has been both ways: first language of the people of Tocaña is Ayamará, and women wear the typical cholita clothing.

Tocaña is a pretty village with houses scattered amongst the agricultural forest. It’s especially interesting to visit when there is a fiesta. The villagers wear white clothes with colourful details, and sing and dance to the music like you would expect in a similar village in Senegal. When there is a festival in Coroico, you can count on them to dance there too.

In the village you can see nice photos and a video of the dance on a visit to the Casa de la Cultura. It is only open on weekends. On weekdays, you might be able to arrange a visit with Vicente at 719 62550 or through one of the guides of Coroico.

How to visit Tocaña:

You can walk to Tocaña via a steep trail down from Coroico to the Puente Mururata. Then you climb up to Tocaña. From there it’s a nice downhill walk through the forest to the former Jewish colony of Charobamba, within the Cotapata National Park.
As there is a budget hotel (where you can get local coffee and food), Tocaña is a good base for an expedition to the mysterious Perolani falls, home of the devil.

With a bicycle: fast 45 minutes descent (cobbled road or single track), then a 45 minutes climb to Tocaña (on foot or with a car). From there a fast descent to Charobamba, with a bit of single track. Cross the river over a not very convincing wooden suspension bridge. Return to Coroico with motorized transport. With Cross Country Coroico.

You can also visit with a taxi, to save yourself a tiring walk. Visit with a guide if you would like to be introduced you to a local family.

There is a cheap hotel in town, Posada Marcelino. Call ahead to 719 44371 or 719 12643. Cost is 30 Bs. per person per night.